How to Take Care of a Bearded Dragon: A Step-by-Step Guide for New Owners

So, you’ve decided to bring a bearded dragon into your life — first of all, welcome to one of the most rewarding reptile experiences you’ll ever have. These spiky little companions are more than just fascinating lizards; they’re quirky, surprisingly social, and full of personality. But here’s the catch: taking care of a bearded dragon the right way isn’t just about putting it in a tank and tossing in a cricket or two.

If you’re wondering how to take care of a bearded dragon, you’re in the right place — and not just with generic answers. This step-by-step guide is packed with real insight, practical tips, and the kind of advice that makes the difference between “just surviving” and thriving.

Whether you’re a brand-new owner or just want to level up your care routine, this guide will walk you through:

• How to set up the perfect habitat (without wasting money on the wrong gear)
• What and how to feed your dragon at every stage of life
• How to handle them confidently (without stressing them out)
• How to clean their enclosure and spot signs of illness early
• And how to actually understand what your bearded dragon is trying to tell you

Taking care of a bearded dragon doesn’t have to feel overwhelming — you just need the right roadmap. So let’s dive in and make sure your dragon gets the happy, healthy life it deserves.

Pro tip before we start: Save or bookmark this guide — you’ll want to come back to it as your dragon grows.

Step 1: Set Up the Ideal Bearded Dragon Enclosure

Creating the right habitat for your bearded dragon is the foundation of proper care. It’s not just about comfort — it directly affects your dragon’s digestion, mood, energy levels, and even lifespan. Here’s how to build an environment that mimics the warm, arid conditions of their natural Australian habitat.

Choose the Right Tank Size

Bearded dragons aren’t just “starter pets.” They grow quickly and need plenty of space to roam, climb, bask, and just be… well, dragons.

• Hatchlings (0–6 months): Minimum 20–40 gallons
• Juveniles (6–12 months): At least 50 gallons
• Adults (12+ months): 75–120 gallons is ideal

Larger is always better. A cramped enclosure leads to stress, poor development, and even aggression.

Tank Types:

• Glass tanks: Most common and affordable. Great visibility, but heat retention may vary.
• PVC enclosures: Excellent insulation and easy to clean. Great for maintaining temperature.
• Wooden vivariums: Look stylish, but can warp if humidity isn’t monitored.

Curious about layout ideas? Visit our habitat and enclosure guide for inspiration.

Install Proper UVB & Basking Lights

Let’s get one thing straight: without UVB, your dragon will suffer — plain and simple.

Bearded dragons need UVB light to synthesize vitamin D3 and absorb calcium. Without it, they can develop Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD), which is painful and often irreversible.

UVB Lighting:

• Use a T5 linear UVB tube (10.0 strength) — skip the cheap coils.
• Position it 12–18 inches from the basking area, with no glass or mesh in between.
• Replace every 6–12 months, even if the bulb still lights up.

Basking Light:

• Creates a hot zone to help your dragon regulate body temperature and digest food.
• Use a heat bulb (75–150W depending on enclosure size).
• Place it above a basking rock or log, on one side of the enclosure.

Light Cycle:

• 12 hours ON / 12 hours OFF — mimic natural daylight with a timer.

Don’t forget: UVB bulbs lose effectiveness before they burn out. Mark the replacement date when you install a new one!

Regulate Temperature and Humidity

Temperature gradients matter more than you might think. Bearded dragons are ectothermic, meaning they rely on external heat to function.

Ideal Temperature Zones:

• Basking spot: 100–108°F (38–42°C)
• Warm side: 85–95°F (29–35°C)
• Cool side: 75–85°F (24–29°C)
• Nighttime: No lower than 65°F (18°C)

Humidity:

• Target range: 30–40%
• Too much humidity can cause respiratory infections
• Use a digital hygrometer for accuracy

Tools to Use:

• Digital probe thermometers (avoid dial types)
• Infrared temp gun for spot checks
• Hygrometer to monitor moisture levels

Pick Safe Substrate

The substrate — or the material that lines the bottom of the enclosure — must be safe, hygienic, and easy to clean.

Best for Beginners:

• Paper towels (easy, cheap, safe)
• Reptile carpet (washable, non-loose)
• Non-adhesive shelf liner
• Tiles (great for adult dragons and holds heat well)

Avoid at all costs:

• Sand (even “calcium sand” – it causes impaction)
• Walnut shells
• Gravel or wood chips

Pro Tip: Impaction is one of the most common (and preventable) health issues in bearded dragons. Avoid loose substrates completely.

Add Decor & Enrichment

Bearded dragons aren’t lazy — they need stimulation to stay healthy and engaged. Decor isn’t just for aesthetics; it shapes their environment and mental well-being.

Include:

• Basking rock or log (must be stable, under the heat lamp)
• Two hides (one on the warm side, one on the cool side)
• Climbing branches
• Shallow water bowl
• Food dish (easy to clean, wide enough for veggies)

Switch things up occasionally to mimic natural exploration and reduce boredom.

With your enclosure set up the right way, you’re giving your dragon the best possible start. Up next, let’s talk food — because what you feed them (and how) can make or break their health.

Step 2: Feeding Your Bearded Dragon Correctl

Feeding your bearded dragon isn’t one-size-fits-all. Their nutritional needs change as they grow, and a poor diet can lead to obesity, malnutrition, or even metabolic diseases. This step will break down exactly what to feed, how often, and why — so your dragon can thrive at every stage.

Follow the Bearded Dragon Diet Pyramid

Imagine a food pyramid made just for bearded dragons — that’s the easiest way to understand their ideal nutrition breakdown.

Hatchlings & Juveniles (0–12 months):

• 70–80% insects (for protein and growth)
• 20–30% greens and veggies
• Feed 2–3 times a day in small portions

Adults (12+ months):

• 70–80% leafy greens & veggies
• 20–30% insects (now more of a treat and supplement)
• Feed once a day or every other day (depending on activity level)

Insects to Include:

• Staples: crickets, dubia roaches, black soldier fly larvae
• Occasional: mealworms, superworms (higher in fat — use sparingly)
• NEVER: wild bugs, fireflies, or anything from your backyard

Insect size rule: No longer than the space between your dragon’s eyes.

Vegetables & Leafy Greens:

• Best daily staples: collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, squash
• Occasional: carrots, bell peppers, endive
• Avoid: spinach (binds calcium), iceberg lettuce (low nutrients), avocado (toxic)

Fruits (treats only):

• Berries, melon, mango — once or twice a week
• High in sugar, so keep it minimal

Want a full nutrition breakdown? Check our complete diet and nutrition guide.

Use Supplements Properly

Even with the perfect diet, your bearded dragon still needs supplements to stay healthy. Why? Because reptiles in captivity don’t get everything they’d naturally find in the wild — especially calcium and vitamins.

The Basics:

• Calcium with D3: Dust insects 3–4 times per week
• Multivitamin: Dust insects or greens 1 time per week

Pro Tip: Always use a light dusting — too much powder can cause them to reject the food.

Rotate supplement days to avoid overdose and keep your dragon interested in food.

Keep Your Dragon Hydrated

Here’s the thing — bearded dragons come from arid environments. They don’t always drink from standing water, which leads many owners to believe they’re staying hydrated when they’re not.

Hydration Tips:

• Always provide a clean, shallow water bowl (refresh daily)
• Lightly mist greens before feeding
• Offer warm baths 1–2x a week (great for hydration and shedding help)
• Watch for signs of dehydration: wrinkled skin, sunken eyes, lack of energy

Dragons often drink during baths — so let them soak for 10–15 minutes under supervision.

Feeding Schedule Snapshot:

Age	Insects	Veggies/Fruits	Frequency
Hatchlings	70–80%	20–30%	2–3x per day
Adults	20–30%	70–80%	1x per day or less

Feeding time is more than just nutrition — it’s bonding time, a chance to observe behavior, and an easy way to detect early signs of illness (like refusing food).

Now that your dragon is eating like a champ, let’s make sure you’re handling them in a way that builds trust and safety.

Step 3: Handle Your Bearded Dragon Safely

Bearded dragons are known for their calm nature and are generally great with being handled — but that doesn’t mean you can just scoop them up like a toy dinosaur. How you handle your dragon impacts their trust, stress levels, and overall behavior.

Let’s break it down into simple, confidence-building steps.

Build Trust Slowly

If your dragon is new to your home, don’t rush the bonding process. They need time to adjust to their surroundings before they’re ready to be held.

Here’s how to earn their trust:

• Start by sitting near the enclosure and let them observe you
• Talk to them softly — yes, really. They recognize sound and tone
• Offer food with tongs or your hand to create positive associations
• Avoid reaching from above (you’ll look like a predator)

Think of it like this: you’re not taming a wild animal — you’re becoming part of their environment.

Support the Whole Body

Once they’re comfortable with your presence, it’s time to gently introduce physical contact.

Handling Basics:

• Approach slowly from the side, not overhead
• Scoop them from underneath, supporting the chest and belly
• Let their tail and limbs rest naturally on your hand or arm
• Never grab, dangle, or squeeze — they’re sturdier than they look, but still delicate

Hold them low over a surface in case they get squirmy. Especially with younger dragons, they can jump unexpectedly if startled.

Holding your dragon properly builds their confidence — and yours too.

Understand Their Body Language

Bearded dragons are very expressive — and once you learn to read them, you’ll know exactly how they feel about handling (and you).

Comfortable Signs:

• Relaxed limbs, soft eyes, slow blinking
• Calm breathing, still posture
• Crawling onto your hand voluntarily

Stressed Signs:

• Beard darkening or puffing up
• Hissing, gaping mouth
• Trying to escape, tail twitching, glass surfing
• Rapid breathing or flattening their body

If you see stress signs, pause and give them space. You’re not failing — you’re just building trust on their terms.

Handling sessions should be short at first (5–10 minutes), then gradually increase as your dragon becomes more comfortable.

Quick Handling Tips Recap:

• Be gentle and calm
• Always support their body fully
• Never force interaction
• Learn their signals
• Keep sessions positive

And remember — every bearded dragon is unique. Some love to hang out on your shoulder. Others prefer a quick visit and then want their space. Respecting those differences is what turns you from an owner into a true companion.

Step 4: Keep the Enclosure Clean and Safe

Bearded dragons eat, poop, shed, and explore all in the same space — which means regular cleaning isn’t optional. A dirty habitat can lead to bacterial buildup, respiratory issues, and parasites.

But don’t worry — once you break it down into daily, weekly, and monthly routines, it’s easy to manage. Let’s go step-by-step.

Daily Task

These quick daily habits take just a few minutes but prevent long-term problems.

• Remove uneaten food (especially live insects — they can bite)
• Spot clean waste as soon as you see it
• Refresh water bowl daily with clean, dechlorinated water
• Check temperature and humidity levels

Tip: Keep a pair of tongs nearby for quick spot cleanups — it’s a lifesaver.

Weekly Cleaning

Once a week, give the enclosure a deeper refresh.

• Wipe down surfaces with a reptile-safe cleaner
• Wash food and water dishes thoroughly
• Rinse hides, branches, and décor with hot water or diluted vinegar (let dry completely)

Avoid harsh chemicals — they can leave harmful residues or cause respiratory irritation.

Want more cleaning hacks? Check out our enclosure care guide for safe tools and products.

Monthly Deep Cleaning

Once a month (or sooner if needed), do a full reset of the enclosure.

Full Deep Clean Routine:

1. Remove your bearded dragon and place them in a safe temporary container (with heat)
2. Take out all substrate and décor
3. Disinfect the enclosure walls, floor, and glass with a reptile-safe disinfectant
4. Soak and scrub all decorations, hides, bowls, and basking rocks
5. Let everything dry completely before reassembling
6. Replace with fresh substrate
7. Return your dragon only after the environment is clean, dry, and at the correct temperature

Pro Tip: Use a calendar reminder for monthly cleanings. Consistency is key!

What to Watch Out For:

• Moldy spots under décor or bowls
• Urate (the white part of reptile poop) build-up
• Sticky residue on glass
• Substrate that stays damp — that’s a red flag for bacterial growth

A clean enclosure means a healthier, happier dragon, with fewer chances of illness or vet bills. Speaking of health…

Let’s head into the next section and learn how to monitor your bearded dragon’s health like a pro.

Step 5: Monitor Your Bearded Dragon’s Health

You don’t need a vet degree to keep your dragon healthy — but you do need a sharp eye, daily awareness, and a little guidance. In this section, we’ll break down how to perform simple health checks, spot warning signs, and find the right kind of professional help when needed.

Daily Health Checks

Set aside a couple of minutes each day to observe your dragon. Most health issues can be spotted by monitoring a few key things:

What to look for:

• Appetite: Are they eating regularly and eagerly? Sudden refusal is a red flag.
• Eyes: Bright, clear, and alert — no swelling or discharge.
• Skin: Smooth and hydrated, no stuck shed or visible injuries.
• Vent area: Clean and dry — no swelling or crustiness.
• Poop: Solid brown part with white urate. Diarrhea, blood, or strange smells may indicate parasites or diet issues.
• Energy: Are they active during the day? A lethargic dragon isn’t just tired — it’s usually a sign something’s off.

Optional: Keep a health log (paper or app) — it helps track patterns and changes over time.

Spot Common Health Issues

Bearded dragons are hardy, but some conditions show up often — especially if diet, lighting, or enclosure maintenance slips.

Here are the most common problems you should be aware of:

Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD):

• Cause: Lack of calcium and/or UVB light
• Symptoms: Weakness, tremors, soft jaw, bent limbs, swelling
• Prevention: Proper supplements and strong UVB lighting

Impaction:

• Cause: Ingesting substrate, oversized food, or dehydration
• Symptoms: No bowel movement, bloated belly, dragging back legs
• Prevention: Use safe substrate and feed appropriate insect sizes

Respiratory Infection:

• Cause: High humidity, cold temperatures
• Symptoms: Wheezing, open-mouth breathing, mucus around nose or mouth
• Prevention: Maintain proper temps and airflow

Parasites:

• Cause: Contaminated food, dirty enclosures
• Symptoms: Diarrhea, weight loss, lethargy
• Prevention: Clean regularly, avoid wild bugs, get stool tested annually

Learn more in our health & diseases guide — we go deeper into symptoms and treatments.

Find a Qualified Reptile Vet

Not all veterinarians know how to treat bearded dragons — they require a specialist in exotic pets.

What to look for:

• “Exotic vet” or “herpetological vet” on their website or reviews
• Willingness to do fecal exams, X-rays, and blood work
• Experience treating reptiles — not just selling them

Pro Tip: Find a reptile vet before you need one. Emergencies aren’t the time to be Googling frantically.

Annual check-ups are ideal — even if your dragon seems fine. Think of it as preventive medicine, just like with dogs or cats.

By combining daily observation, proactive care, and access to the right vet, you’re doing more than keeping your dragon alive — you’re helping them thrive for years to come.

Now that you know how to spot what’s going on inside, let’s explore what’s going on in your dragon’s head — through their natural behaviors.

Step 6: Understand Natural Behaviors

Bearded dragons are full of subtle (and not-so-subtle) behaviors that tell you how they’re feeling, what they need, or whether something’s wrong. Here’s your crash course in “dragon speak.”

Brumation (AKA: Reptile Hibernation)

Yes, dragons “hibernate” — but the reptile version is called brumation. It’s a natural slowdown, usually during the cooler months, where your dragon becomes less active, eats less (or not at all), and sleeps more.

What to Expect:

• Less basking, more hiding
• Decreased appetite
• Very little movement — sometimes for days or weeks
• No weight loss if healthy

Brumation isn’t dangerous — unless your dragon is already sick or underweight. If unsure, consult a reptile vet before assuming it’s brumation.

Arm Waving

This slow, circular arm motion (usually with one front leg) looks oddly adorable — like they’re saying hello.

What it means:

• Submission or recognition, especially in young dragons
• Sometimes seen when a dragon sees their own reflection or another reptile

Head Bobbing

This quick, jerky movement is most common in males and can mean dominance or mating behavior.

Variations:

• Fast bobs = “I’m the boss here”
• Slow bob followed by a wave = submissive acknowledgment
• Bobbing at you = they’re feeling territorial (especially during mating season)

Beard Puffing / Beard Turning Black

This dramatic behavior is where they get their name — their throat “beard” puffs out and turns dark or black.

What it means:

• Stress or fear
• Territorial defense
• Discomfort or pain
• Occasionally part of courtship behavior

If the beard is constantly black and paired with lethargy, get them checked — it could indicate illness or stress.

Glass Surfing

Ever seen your dragon frantically running against the glass, scratching, or pacing?

Possible reasons:

• Tank is too small or boring
• They see their reflection and mistake it for a rival
• They’re overstimulated or under-stimulated
• They want out to explore!

If glass surfing becomes frequent, reassess their enclosure size, enrichment, or feeding/hydration schedule.

Lethargy vs. Relaxation

A relaxed dragon will bask, sleep, or lounge calmly.
A lethargic dragon will appear limp, unresponsive, or keep its eyes closed for long periods.

Knowing the difference is key. Healthy rest is normal — but ongoing inactivity without cause? That’s a warning sign.

By learning to read your bearded dragon’s natural behaviors, you’re not just keeping them healthy — you’re becoming the kind of caretaker that understands them like family. And let’s be honest… once you start noticing all these subtle signals, you’ll never look at your dragon the same way again.

Conclusion

Caring for a bearded dragon might seem overwhelming at first — lighting setups, calcium powder, temperature gradients, hydration tricks, and poop inspections (yeah, that’s a thing). But once you’ve got the rhythm down, it becomes second nature. And more than that — it becomes deeply rewarding.

Your bearded dragon isn’t just a pet. It’s a creature that relies on you to recreate its entire ecosystem, to interpret its behavior, and to give it the kind of care that lets it thrive — not just survive.

By now, you’ve learned:

• How to set up a safe, enriching enclosure
• What and how to feed your dragon at every stage of life
• How to handle them confidently and respectfully
• What to clean, when, and how to keep their space healthy
• How to detect early signs of illness and prevent common diseases
• How to understand their unique body language and natural cycles

And most importantly… you’ve learned how to take care of a bearded dragon in a way that’s clear, humane, and fully informed.

Keep learning. Keep observing. And never underestimate how much your dragon appreciates your effort — even if they don’t wag a tail or purr when you walk into the room.

FAQs – How to Take Care of a Bearded Dragon

Want to keep learning?

Explore these next guides to become a true dragon master:

• Bearded Dragon Habitat & Enclosure Guide
• Diet & Nutrition Tips
• Health & Disease Prevention
• Breeding & Baby Dragon Care
• Full Bearded Dragon Care Library

You’ve got the knowledge. Now go build the bond.
Your dragon’s counting on you — and you’ve got this.